Museum of Arts and Design to Present First Museum Exhibition Exploring the Design of Perfume in November 2012

The Art of Scent to Feature Pivotal Modern and Contemporary Works Including Chanel  # 5 by Ernest Beaux, Jicky by Aimé Guerlain, Aromatics Elixir byBernard Chant, Angel by Olivier Cresp, Pleasures by Annie Buzantian and Alberto Morillas, and Untitled by Daniela Andrier

The Art of Scent, 1889-2012, is the first museum exhibition dedicated to exploring the design and aesthetics of olfactory art through twelve pivotal fragrances, dating from 1889 to the present, that profoundly impacted the course of the medium. On view November 13, 2012, through January 27, 2013, at the Museum of Arts and Design, the exhibition will examine major stylistic developments in the evolution and design of fragrance, and provide unprecedented insight into the creative visions and intricate processes of the artists responsible for crafting the featured works. The scents will be experienced individually in a special installation designed by Diller Scofidio + Renfro that emphasizes the distinct combination of artistry and chemistry entailed in their creation. The Art of Scent will be accompanied by a boxed catalogue designed by Diller Scofidio + Renfro for MAD, featuring identically bottled samples of select works in the exhibition.

Organized by MAD’s Curator of Olfactory Art, Chandler Burr, The Art of Scent explores the progression of olfactory art, beginning in the late nineteenth century—when the introduction of synthetic molecules freed scent artists from the constraints of using all-natural materials, making scent a true artistic medium—through the present day. The exhibition opens with the work of Aimé Guerlain, who was among the first to introduce synthetic molecules alongside natural materials with the design of Jicky (1889). The exhibition will then lead visitors through an olfactory experience that showcases the work of the most significant scent artists of the 20th and early 21st centuries, including:

• Ernest Beaux, who in 1921 used chemical compounds known as synthetic aldehydes in combination with a floral structure to create the first great modernist work with Chanel #5;

• Bernard Chant, whose Aromatics Elixir (1971) was one of the great mid-twentieth century works that brought America into the forefront of perfume creation;

• Olivier Cresp, whose Angel (1992) is the paradigmatic gourmand work of the late 20th century;

• Annie Buzantian and Alberto Morillas, who in using a carbon dioxide extraction in their influential Pleasures (1995), mainstreamed a major technological advance in the medium and altered olfactory design; and

• Daniela Andrier, whose Untitled (2010) is an ingenious neo-brutalist work that references nature both violently and abstractly.

“At MAD, we are always looking to push boundaries and question the hierarchies in art by exploring the materials and processes behind groundbreaking work,” said Holly Hotchner, the museum’s Nanette L. Laitman Director. “There has not been the exploration or recognition of olfactory art as there has been of art that stimulates the other four senses. In plain language, this exhibition is a game changer.”

Presented in MAD’s fourth floor galleries, the exhibition will facilitate a focused olfactory experience through the near-complete removal of visual indicators, such as logos and marketing materials, encouraging visitors to concentrate exclusively on their sense of smell. The exhibition will also provide visitors with an unprecedented glimpse into the labor-intensive artistic process of creating perfume by showcasing the stages of development for one fragrance, from the initial written brief to the first iteration and through the layering and modification of scent required to reach the final desired work of olfactory art.

Recognizing the social aspect of selecting and experiencing perfumes, The Art of Scent will culminate in a space where visitors may converse, compare the featured works of olfactory art, and provide feedback about the exhibition. The shared responses and personal insights will become part of the exhibition’s record, underscoring that the individual experience of fragrance is the concluding factor in the works’ artistry and design.

“Much as museum visitors typically follow the trajectory of modern art and design by viewing a succession of iconic works, at MAD they will be able to explore the aesthetic evolution and creative innovations of modern and contemporary olfactory works using their sense of smell,” said exhibition curator Chandler Burr. “While these perfumes are often encountered, they are seldom acknowledged as the works of art and design that they are. My goal for this exhibition is to transform the ways in which people respond to scent artists and their art. The works presented in this exhibition are ones that have each had a profound impact on the history of this artistic medium.”

Other confirmed works of olfactory art featured in the exhibition include: Drakkar Noir (1982), by Pierre Wargnye; L’Eau d’Issey (1992), by Jacques Cavallier; cK One (1994), by Alberto Morillas and Harry Frémont; and Prada (2003), by Carlos Benaim and Clément Gavarry.

EXHIBITION ORGANIZATION AND CREDITS

The Art of Scent is made possible by Founding Major Donor The Estēe Lauder Companies, and Major Donors Procter & Gamble Prestige, Chanel, Inc., Hermès Parfums, International Flavors & Fragrances Inc., and Arcade Marketing USA. Additional support for The Art of Scent is provided by Guerlain—a Funder—and Women in Flavor and Fragrance Commerce Inc.

MAD CATALOGUE AND PERFUMES

The Art of Scent, 1889-2012, will be accompanied by a catalogue in a special coffret. The catalogue will include an essay by Chandler Burr that discusses the artists and art historical contexts of a selection of works of olfactory art, juxtaposing them with creations in other media, from painting to architecture, and artists, from Domenico Ghirlandaio to Mies van der Rohe, Gabriel Fauré, and Pink. Burr will examine the works’ different structures and designs to illustrate how perfume has evolved from 1889. The box will also include samples of works featured in the exhibition, each contained in an identical 5ml lab bottle, free of logos and commercial packaging.

ABOUT DILLER SCOFIDIO + RENFRO

Diller Scofidio + Renfro is an interdisciplinary design studio that integrates architecture, the visual arts, and the performing arts. Based in New York City, the 100-person studio is led by four principals – Elizabeth Diller, Ricardo Scofidio, Charles Renfro, and Benjamin Gilmartin. In 1999, the MacArthur Foundation presented Ms. Diller and Mr. Scofidio with the ‘Genius’ award for their commitment to integrating architecture with issues of contemporary culture. Selected projects completed or in design include: the High Line Park, New York City; Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts Redevelopment Project, New York City; the Institute of Contemporary Art, Boston; Blur Building, Switzerland; Brown University’s Creative Arts Center, Providence; The Broad Museum, Los Angeles; the Museum of Image & Sound, Rio de Janeiro; and the Hirshhorn Museum Expansion, Washington D.C. Installation and performance projects recently completed include: Be Your Self with the Australian Dance Theatre; How Wine Became Modern, an exhibition designed and co-created for SFMoMA; and Exit for Terre Natale, an exhibition accompanying the United Nations Conference on Climate Change (COP15) in Copenhagen.

ABOUT THE MUSEUM OF ARTS AND DESIGN

The Museum of Arts and Design explores how craftsmanship, art, and design intersect in the visual arts today. The Museum focuses on contemporary creativity and the ways in which artists and designers from around the world transform materials through processes ranging from the handmade to cutting edge technologies. The Museum’s exhibition program explores and illuminates issues and ideas, highlights creativity and craftsmanship, and celebrates the limitless potential of materials and techniques when used by creative and innovative artists. MAD’s permanent collection is global in scope and focuses on art, craft, and design from 1950 to the present day. At the center of the Museum’s mission is education. The Museum’s dynamic new facility features classrooms and studios for master classes, seminars, and workshops for students, families and adults. Three open artist studios engage visitors in the creative processes of artists at work and enhance the exhibition programs. Lectures, films, performances and symposia related to the Museum’s collection and topical subjects affecting the world of contemporary art, craft and design are held in a renovated 144-seat auditorium.

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